Lake Titicaca, Peru

Lake Titicaca covers 3,305 square miles of the southern highlands (altiplano) of Peru, on the border between Peru and Bolivia. It is the largest lake in South America, and at 11,500 feet above sea level, the largest lake in the world above 6,500 feet. At this altitude the lake shines an iridescent blue through the clear sunlight - a beautiful complement to the red and brown-hued hills of the altiplano. The combination makes quite an enchanting picture, and a welcome sight after a long train ride to Puno.

In contrast, the city of Puno, Peru's major port on Lake Titicaca, is a rather drab sight. What it lacks in visual appeal, however, it makes up for in vibrancy and color of local custom. Puno is known as the folklore capitol of Peru. It boasts up to 300 different types of traditional dances, many of which are performed in the streets during annual festivals. A good one to catch in early November is Puno week, which celebrates the legendary birth of the first Inca, Manco Capac, and his sister, Mama Ocllo. According to legend the pair rose up out of the Lake Titicaca in search of a place to establish the Inca empire.

The legend is an apt one, as the fertile environment of Lake Titicaca supports many habitats, human and animal. One of the most interesting cultures you'll find on the lake is that of the Uros people (Los Uros), whose entire community and lifestyle are literally built upon the totora reeds that grow in the ample shallows of the lake. Centuries ago the Uros struck out for the middle of the lake to escape the warring Inca and Colla tribes on the shore. They live on over 40 floating reed islands that are maintained by continually adding fresh totora reeds to the top, even as they rot away from the bottom. The Uros live in reed huts, travel in reed boats, and sell handicrafts woven from reeds. (This totora reed boat bottle, made by the Chimu culture in the North, depicts a similar type of boat made centuries ago.) The largest island supports many buildings, including a small museum with a collection of stuffed birds and animals. Embroidered textile souvenirs and models of reed boats are displayed on the island grounds, and you can often see carrache (small lake fish) drying in the sun. Today around 300 Uros people continue to live in this floating community.

In addition to the floating islands, there are many real islands in Lake Titicaca that are worth visiting. The island of Taquile, four hours from Puno by boat, offers a beautiful, if rustic, escape from the relative urban bustle of Puno. The men of Taquile, who pilot the boats that transport tourists from Puno to Taquile island, are easily recognized by their nightcap-like woolen hats, which they are constantly knitting. On the island, you will find quaint squares, rolling trails, a few pre-Inca ruins, simple houses and terraces, gorgeous scenery, and not much else. The island does not have electricity, roads, cars, hotels, or dogs. Island families will welcome you to stay a night in their home, or you can walk a ways to the far side of the island and camp. The view of the Cordillera Real mountain range across the huge, silent lake is worth the trip.

Lake Titicaca